There was a time when the home sewer only had one choice when it came to the type of elastic they would use. The only decision was what size to use for a particular sewing job. Those tables have turned dramatically, however. In the old days, when your pattern called for elastic, you only needed to first stop and think about the function of the elastic, then consider the width.
Today, there are almost as many different types of elastic on the market as there are types of sewing thread. While elastic for home sewing was at one time available in white only, you can now find certain types of elastic in a variety of colors.
Most elastic for home use is available in only white and black. From there, you have a lot of decisions to make.
Types of Elastic and Uses
Generally, there are four different types of elastic available for use in home sewing projects. Within those categories, however, there are several different types from which to choose.
If you are not aware of the different types of elastic and their specific functions, you run the risk of investing a lot of time, money an energy in a sewing project and then discovering that it is all wrong because the right kind of elastic was not used during the construction phase.
- Woven
- Knitted
- Braided
- Clear or Transparent
- Elastic Cord
- Stretch lace or ruffle elastic
WOVEN ELASTIC
Woven elastic is most commonly used for apparel. It is easy to work with, inexpensive, and can be found in widths ranging from ½” to 8 inches.
Woven elastic is generally thicker than the other types of elastic and maintains its original height – does not get narrow – when it is stretched, making it an ideal choice for waistbands.
Woven elastic is not weakened by needle piercings. Woven elastic is also great for upholstery and home decor projects because it is thick and lasts a long time.
- Flat woven non-roll elastic is best for use in waistbands. Flat woven non-roll elastic comes in black or white and is available at most stores that sell fabric and notions in widths varying from ½ inch to an inch and a half.
- Ribbed woven non-roll elastic is suitable for waistbands, but in my opinion not as effective as the flat woven non-roll elastic. Although I have used this type of elastic in the past, I found that it is more likely to twist or roll than the flat woven non-roll variety. Ribbed woven non-roll elastic was at one time the most readily available type of non-roll elastic. With the growing popularity and reliability of the flat variety, however, the ribbed variety does not seem to be as easy to locate as in the past. The advantage here, however, is that you can usually find this variety of non-roll elastic in wider widths than the flat woven non-roll elastic.
- Fold over elastic is relatively new for use in home sewing rooms. It was created with new sewing techniques in mind. More and more people are using sergers to attach elastic – especially when working with knits and athletic wear. Fold over elastic is made with flattened ends on the top and bottom which allow the user to easily sew through to attach the elastic directly to the edge of a garment then fold it over and finish the waistband or leg or sleeve cuff. Fold over elastic is available in widths varying from a quarter inch to one inch. Fold over elastic does not narrow when stretched, making it an ideal choice for waistbands when you do not want to use a traditional casing. Fold over elastic comes in a variety of patterns and colors and can also be used to make elastic belts and exposed waistbands on skirts or pants as well as elasticized cuffs on pants legs and sleeves.
- Cotton bathing suit elastic is a woven elastic that is recommended, but not essential for making bathing suits. The elastic fibers are encased in cotton as opposed to a blend of cotton and polyester or all polyester. It is softer to the touch, but functions identically to elastic that is made from polyester or from a cotton polyester blend. I make my own bathing suits and bathing suits for clients and have noticed no difference in the way any of these types of elastic perform when wet.
KNITTED ELASTIC
Knitted elastic is lightweight. The narrower widths are ideal for lingerie as well as certain elasticized necklines or sleeve cuffs in lightweight blouses or dresses and other delicate items. Like woven elastic, knitted elastic doesn’t change when a needle goes through it, it doesn’t get smaller when it’s stretched, and it can be sewn directly to the fabric or put in casings. Knitted elastic is usually made from polyester yarn and is usually looser than woven elastic. Knitted elastic is available in a variety of colors because the wider widths are often used when making garments with exposed waistbands, leg or wrist bands, and for making elasticized belts.
- Flat knitted corset elastic: Quite frankly, I don’t know how this particular type of elastic came to be called by this curious name, nor do I know why. All I do know about it is that this the type of elastic I use when I want an exposed elastic waistband. Be careful, however, when using flat knitted corset elastic for an exposed waistband. I suggest cutting it a little longer than you would a flat or ribbed woven elastic waistband. Flat knitted corset elastic WILL roll on you.
If your elastic is at least an inch or two longer, the likelihood of its rolling is somewhat reduced. If you are looking for elastic in a variety of colors, you will most likely find the color you want in this type of elastic. - Knitted buttonhole elastic is a special use type of elastic that is used in certain garments where drawstrings or cording are used in casual wear. Knitted buttonhole elastic is normally available in widths of ¾” and one inch. The buttonholes in this elastic are not really intended for actual buttons though someone may get very creative and use buttons with this elastic. The buttonholes are placed about an inch or so apart, making it easy to make customized corded elastic waistbands and leg or sleeve cuffs.
BRAIDED ELASTIC
I like to use braided elastic when making lingerie or working with very delicate fabrics. Softly braided elastic makes the most comfortable wrist bands on delicate blouses. In addition, back when peasant blouses were all the rage, I used braided elastic exclusively in my neck bands. It is lightweight, extremely soft, and an excellent complement to any lightweight fabric. It is available in both white and black.
With black braided elastic, there was never an issue with white elastic peeking out under the wristband of a sheer black blouse. Braided elastic does, however, narrow when it is stretched, so I do not recommend it for use in waistbands or anyplace where the shape of an elasticized wrist or leg band is important to the look and shape of a garment.
CLEAR ELASTIC
If there ever was a highly specialized, single use type of elastic, this has got to be it. I have only seen clear elastic used to make shoulder straps on dresses or tops that have the appearance of being strapless. Clear elastic straps are also used on bras to be worn under strapless and off the shoulder tops and dresses. I think clear elastic straps are fantastic additions to strapless or off the shoulder garments for the simple reason that they guarantee the security of avoiding a wardrobe malfunction.
ELASTIC CORD
Elastic cord is used for crafts more than for sewing. It is ideal for making bracelets, anklets and necklaces. The more narrow forms of elastic cord, however, is quite useful in smocking which is used in clothing for children as well as adults.
When working with corded elastic on a sewing machine, put the corded thread on the bobbin and turn the set screw on the bobbin case loosen the tension so the cord will be able to pass through easily.
Corded elastic is not advised for use on sewing machines with a drop in bobbins because adjusting the bobbin tension is not possible.
STRETCH LACE OR RUFFLE ELASTIC
This kind of elastic is great for adding a little something extra to the edges of lingerie and fancy dresses for little girls. I used stretch lace elastic on the edges of my granddaughter’s rompers when she was an infant. It is also a nice touch for women’s panties, slips, braziers, robes and nightgowns.
Buying Elastic for Home Use
Nearly every store that sells fabric and sewing notions carries at least the most popular types of elastic… woven non roll elastic and knit elastic in varying widths. Elastic may be purchased in packages of two yards or more or by the yard. When it comes to buying elastic, my advice is to buy the right amount for what you want to do.
I buy one inch non-roll elastic for waistbands by the yard – usually five yards at a time. Because I make bathing suits on a somewhat regular basis, I also purchase quarter inch woven or knitted elastic by the yard – at least three yards for each suit.
However, when it comes to other types of elastic that I use on a less frequent basis, I purchase only packages of two or three yards. Unlike thread and fabric that is stored properly, elastic can and does lose its strength over time. I have a very dear friend who was moving and offered me a bunch of elastic in various sizes. Her feelings were hurt when I turned down her gift and then used some of her gifts to explain why I didn’t want them.
Buying elastic by the yard is cheaper and more efficient than buying it in packages, but I wouldn’t recommend buying a lot of elastic if you aren’t going to use it in a reasonable amount of time.
Purchasing in bulk quantities might save you money, but you are just throwing it away if you let the elastic rot away in a drawer. I store my elastic in a plastic box about the size of a shoe box. Elastic hanks as prepackaged quantities of elastic are called can generally go into the box just as they are.
To keep my elastic from turning into a tangled mess, elastic that has been purchased by the yard, or hanks that have been opened, are rolled and pinned at one end to keep everything neat, clean and in order.
How to select the right elastic for your sewing project?
Elastic is one of the most functional sewing notions on the planet. It is used to hold our skirts and pants in place, to add finishing touches to children’s clothes and to adorn our lingerie.
Elastic it also used for securing the sleeves and leg ends of our athletic wear. Getting the right size and type of elastic is important for making sure that a garment with an elastic accent fits and looks right. With so many different types of elastic available on the market, one might be tempted to simply use any elastic that may be on hand at the time. The issue with this is that not all elastic is created equal.
Therefore, if you are looking for elastic to use in a waistband, you must make sure that when it is stretched, it does not get narrow on you. By the same token, you want to be certain that the elastic you use in your bathing suit won’t go limp on you when it gets wet.
Before making a decision as to which kind of elastic to use, you must first determine what the finished garment will be used for. Once that has been settled, then you need to shop for the proper type of elastic. If you are not sure what kind of elastic to use for a certain sewing project, do not be afraid to ask a sales associate in your local fabric or notions store. The sales associates in fabric and sewing stores are there for more than just a paycheck.
Before being hired to work in a fabric store, part of the interview process is to prove that they know about sewing and things that are of specific interest to the home sewer in particular, not just the retail business in general. They are there to help and always willing to be of assistance in any way they can. A knowledgeable sewing machine store sales associate is an extremely valuable asset. Never hesitate to take advantage of their expertise.
If you are an advanced sewist, have a look at our best sewing books and best sewing magazines posts and if you are looking to get a basic, heavy duty or industrial sewing machine, have a look at some of our great articles. If you are a beginner sewist, review our best sewing books for beginners and best sewing machines under $200 to get started. Happy Stitching.
Happy stitching.
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